Restaurant Between Nantucket and Boston
April 11, 2007
Moving on up from the Cape, Lynn Walsh is scouting out unique places for your trips to and from Boston. Here’s her first report.
When looking for tapas on island, there’s Cinco. But next time you’re headed to America for a few days of pre-daffodil bulk shopping, and you find yourself lusting for the acorn-smoky-buttery flavors of paper-thin jamon Serrano melting on your tongue, I’ve found a pretty amazing tapas restaurant in South Easton, of all places.
Loco is only open Thursdays, Fridays & Saturdays, but everything is right: the right light, the right music, and yes, the right crowd. (I found myself chatting with a couple who are frequent Nantucket visitors.)
Just inside, pausing to shed my gloves in one of those so very Euro ’space capsules’ distinguished by heavy paprika colored velvet drapes meant to keep out the the draft, it absolutely smells like Spain. In the lounge, you can perch (or pose) on club chairs, or melt into loving sofas for two. High drama or low key, this lounge is a carefully blocked stage, and you get to be one of the cast. Play any role you like.
At the sexy copper bar, there’s a thirst quenching house-made sangria, a more than respectable by-the-glass wine list, and daily “pinchos” - little tapas bites displayed as in Barcelona, under glass at the bar. Nibble on the chorizo - it’s the real thing; and savor a “love bite” while you wait for your table.
The dining room is high art: on the walls and on the plate. You’re likely to be escorted to your table by Mikaela Messinger, a LOCO principal and who, with her husband, are two of the ‘Crazy Chefs’ whose catering company won Best of Boston in 2006. The wait staff are friendly and apt guides as you begin your adventure through the extensive menu of more pinchos, tapas, and platos principales.
You’ll love the pepita crusted diver scallops with pomegranate glaze, presented as would be jewels at the Prado. There’s Loco Caesars, with famous Crazy Chef dressing, earthy fabada, an Asturian white bean stew, and patatas bravas – perfectly fried wedges with garlicy allioli and spicy tomato sauce. The beef tenderloin and rosti potatoes with blue cheese butter and onion confit is fusion at its best.
www.locotapas.com
420 Turnpike Street Route 138
Easton, MA
Just off Route 24 as you head north from the Cape, exit 16B.
MAP
Entry Filed under: Nantucket, Restaurants, Travel. .
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1.
Paul Kaufman | May 18, 2007 at 10:33 am
Loco is crazy good!
Venturing into Loco, a quaint, little tapas and wine bar situated directly off of busy Route 138 in South Easton, MA, Paul’s Palate initially feared the worst. Only because on an evening in which torrential downpours and blackened skies dominated the landscape, this superstitious soul felt that the hostile weather pattern presented an ominous sign in terms of an enjoyable dining experience. Would this reviewer ultimately go “loco (spanish term for crazy)” over Loco or would he be left uttering the phrase “Nunca Mas (never again)?”
Fortunately, my deepest fears are immediately allayed upon arrival. Loco’s unique atmosphere can be attributed to its blend of warmth and intimacy. With its pristine interior, walls splattered in dark red hues, a copper bar, dimmed lighting, authentic Spanish songs playing aloud, and a relatively smaller-sized, cozy dining area, Loco exudes a hip, romantic vibe without being overtly pretentious. Its atmosphere is only enhanced by the attentiveness and friendliness of the wait staff, all of whom make diners feel welcomed and right at home. Our server is particularly good this evening, proving accurate in her culinary recommendations and her casual manner. This evening, the Executive Chef even goes out of her way, jovially making tableside rounds to ensure that her customers are content. Meanwhile, Loco’s co-owner is in the kitchen whipping up an array of potentially delectable dishes that make me reminisce about the Spanish cuisine I adored several years ago during my year spent abroad in Seville, Spain. Would Loco’s cuisine live up to such lofty expectations?
Cocktails are memorable, though we do get off to a rather auspicious start. The Manhattan, with its combination of whisky and Spanish sherry, sounds promising, but an excess of the former makes for an unbearably strong beverage. My wife cannot even bring her lips to the glass, overwhelmed by the intense aromas of the whisky. With the sincerest of apologies from our server, the Manhattan is swiftly taken away, and I proceed to order a much more enjoyable mojito, a cool, crisp mix of Spanish rum doused with fresh mint. My spouse’s Key Lime martini comes highly recommended, and for good reason. This concoction is sweet, light, and not too heavy on the stomach, a fate that befalls many dessert cocktails in other establishments. The home-made sangria falls a bit flat given its surprising lack of sweetness, leaving a pungent aftertaste.
As a mini-starter (“pinchos”), we share pan de tomaquet (catalan garlic and tomato rubbed bread), a zesty dish that leaves us wondering why we nibbled on the complimentary bread from Iggy’s in Cambridge - as good as it was - in the first place. From there, we proceed to sip on a light, refreshing bowl of gazpacho a la barceloneta (gazpacho of Barcelona) as our tapa fria (cold tapa), which is a delightful orange-colored soup that proves not too creamy and packs a peppery punch.
In lieu of entrees (platos principales), many of which appear tempting (such as the paella and rioja braised beef short ribs), we decide to experiment with several smaller hot tapa (tapas calientes) dishes. The first and most intriguing of these that arrive are the mojito marinated chicken and beef skewers with grilled lime. While the presentation is a plus given that the dish is accompanied by a mojito shooter and the skewers are served in triangular fashion, the meat itself is disappointing, particularly the chicken, which is prepared on the dry side. Next come the seared diver scallops with spiced grapefruit relish. Although the relish tag proves slightly misleading in that it is comes in the form of a juice, this dish wins us over, as the scallops are succulent and perfectly cooked, absorbing the tangy bitterness of the grapefruit. The tortilla espanol (Spanish egg and potato omelet with romesco sauce) is equally enjoyable, and its accompanying spicy romesco sauce make this dish sizzle. Lastly, the duo of pork dish, which includes rioja braised bbq pork and seared tenderloin, is tasty, though my spouse and I unanimously prefer the former, wishing we could consume just the tangy, moist pork alone.
To finish, we split a heavenly trio of warmed churros, a Spanish dessert (postre) consisting of dough, subsequently dipped in chocolate ice cream with flecks of cocoa. These doughy delights are some of the best I’ve tasted, including those from Seville. A healthy infusion of café con leche (Spanish coffee and espresso blend with steamed milk) washes away all traces of the churros, and my spouse and I are ultimately content with the conclusion of what has to be considered by and large a successful dining experience.
Value rates well for Loco. From a price perspective, small tapa dishes range from $3-6, while the majority of hot and cold tapa plates run from $5-10. Main entrees fluctuate from $15-29. And of course, one cannot put a price on the quality of authentic Spanish cuisine. This reviewer certainly hopes that surrounding towns rapidly catch wind of this eclectic eatery. Might Paul’s Palate return for an encore? I’d be “loco” not to.
2.
James | February 24, 2008 at 7:00 pm
I wanted to let you all know that L O C O tapas and wine bar has moved to a new and improved location three miles away. The new address is: 520 Foundry St. (Rt. 106), still in South Easton, MA.
Also, the restaurant is now open on Wednesday evenings as well!